Taghia : one of the best climbing spot in the world

Taghia, Morroco. A small village in between nothing. Berbers, a small tribe of people who are happy with what they have. At least since we saw the huge amount of steep rock faces there, we were as happy as our hosts. To get to this paradise we spend two days on a train, an aeroplane, a car and finally by foot, next to donkeys which were carrying our luggage.

The first days of climbing were exciting; we enjoyed the beauty and diversity of the area, explored the walls, and researched approaches and descents. We fell into a daily routine: breakfast, climbing, dinner, socialising, preparing my Dragonfly backpack for the next day, and sleeping. The variety came only at dinner.

Climbing routes for all tastes

Beside dinner, the climbing routes were as different as can be. In Taghia there are all types of climbing, from hard aid routes (tip: take pitons) to hard sport climbing.

Climbing in Taghia is special. Remote and rugged, rescue is not possible. Your options should be clearly measured; good training for future adventures.

Back to civilization

With each yellow soup at sunset, our days in Taghia become fewer. We wished stay for months and did not want do leave the paradise, but the donkeys and horses were waiting to carry our luggage out of the valley. Returning to Marrakech was a horrible change of pace with extreme heat, pushy people and lots of noise. Saved only by a roof-top swimming pool and a beautiful sundown.

One thing is sure: I will return to this paradise with my drill and finish the lines that are already in my mind! See you again Taghia!